 |
Stock Engine: My goal in this project was to eliminate the restrictive factory air box and Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
|
 |
Stock Airbox Lid: The stock airbox lid has two large silencers on each side. The lid also has plastic vanes that restrict airflow. The stock lid is designed to inhale air quietly. The lid is held down by two clamps in the front, and two plastic pins that can be removed by needle nose pliers. It is also neccesary to remove the hose that is connected to the driver's side silencer. This is the air pump hose, and is only present on 2000-2002 F-body LS1 cars.
|
 |
Stock MAF Unit: The stock MAF has a screen on the front and a divider piece in the middle. These are the restrictions in the MAF that will be removed. This view is from the engine side looking towards the filter.
|
 |
Stock MAF Parts: Here you can see the parts that make up the stock MAF. It consists of the black electronics piece, a front MAF half with the screen, and a rear MAF half. It is all held together by 4 screws. Be careful when handling the electronics portion because the wires are delicate and can be damaged easily.
|
 |
Ported MAF Parts: I choose to purchase MAF halves already ported so that I would still be able to use my stock pieces if I ever needed them. You can port your stock piece with a hacksaw and dremel. When you port the MAF, you have two unrestricted pieces. Some people also remove the divider on the electronics piece, but I choose not to in fear of damaging the electronics.
|
 |
Ported MAF Unit: Now the only restiction in the MAF is the black plastic divider. The insides are smooth and flow more air into the engine.
|
 |
Direct Flow Lid and Ported MAF: The ported MAF and Direct Flow lid are a great combination because they work together to bring more air into the engine.
|
 |
Installed Lid and MAF: The lid has an added benefit of cleaning up the engine bay. The lid can be tough to install because the four tabs at the rear of the lid must seat completely or the lid will not fit. Just make sure you press the tabs into the lower airbox as far as they will go. Then just clamp it down. I'm still using my stock air filter because a K&N Air Filter has never been proven to make more power on a dyno than a paper filter.
|
 |
Air Pump Filter: After assembling the lid, you need to find a place to tie off the air pump hose and filter. The small filter is held onto the hose with a band clamp. I zip tied my hose and filter to the radiator. It doesn't matter where you place the hose.
|
|
